For Working Leather

By 'working' leather, I mean putting holes in it, beveling edges.. ok, I don't know what the hell I mean either. Here are some more tools you'll need:

A. A Mallet is a staple of leatherwork. You get to pound on all kinds of things, so you need a good one. Almost any mallet will do, although the traditional materials are wood and rawhide. The one above is an old rubber mallet I pulled from my pile of woodworking tools back in 1995 or so. Worked OK, but nowadays I have rawhide and poly versions (and I think the dog ate the one above). I prefer the poly mallet, as it feels firmer to me. WT-011 for $18. A mallet of some sort is required.

B. Oblong hole punch, for making holes for buckle-tongues, plate staples, and locking rollers. You can get around the 1-1/2" punch, using a different technique to make slots in buckle ends of straps. For plate staple or locking roller cuffs the right size is pretty much required. I sell 3/4" for plate staples (WT-005) and 1/2" for locking rollers (WT-006). The sheet metal style above doesn't seem to be available anymore, and the forged alternatives are expensive... $26 and $24 respectively. Never hit one with a steel hammer!

C. Hole punches in a variety of sizes, for (duh) making holes. These are the conceptual equivalent of a drill and bits for working wood. Buy the small and large kits for about $8 and $9.50. WT-009 and WT-010. Required.

D. Belt-ender, one way to make strap ends. These guys cost about $25-30 at The Leather Factory, and are only worth it if you are going to make a lot of straps in one size. Totally optional, and I haven't touched any of mine in years.

E. Edge beveler, used for beveling off sharp edges. Definitely a must for a professional look. There are two main styles: a chamfer cutting "standard" and a quarter-round "keen." Ideally, do most of your work with a #3 Keen (WT-012). Get a #2 standard (WT-013), however, for tight inside turns that the Keen can't cut. Required for nice gear (in my opinion).

F. Awl, used for marking things, poking things, and punching holes. The Leather Factory sells them for a couple of bucks. I use a carpet needle shoved into a bit of dowel. Optional.

A.	A Mallet is a staple of leatherwork. You get to pound on all kinds of things, so you need a good one. Almost any mallet will do, although the traditional materials are wood and rawhide. The one above is an old rubber mallet I pulled from my pile of woodworking tools back in 1995 or so. Worked OK, but nowadays I have rawhide and poly versions (and I think the dog ate the one above). I prefer the poly mallet, as it feels firmer to me. WT-011 for $18. A mallet of some sort is required.
B.	Oblong hole punch, for making holes for buckle-tongues, plate staples, and locking rollers. You can get around the 1-1/2" punch, using a different technique to make slots in buckle ends of straps. For plate staple or locking roller cuffs the right size is pretty much required. I sell 3/4" for plate staples (WT-005) and 1/2" for locking rollers (WT-006). The sheet metal style above doesn't seem to be available anymore, and the forged alternatives are expensive... $26 and $24 respectively. Never hit one with a steel hammer!
C.	Hole punches in a variety of sizes, for (duh) making holes. These are the conceptual equivalent of a drill and bits for working wood. Buy the small and large kits for about $8 and $9.50. WT-009 and WT-010. Required.
D.	Belt-ender, one way to make strap ends. These guys cost about $25-30 at The Leather Factory, and are only worth it if you are going to make a lot of straps in one size. Totally optional, and I haven't touched any of mine in years.
E.	Edge beveler, used for beveling off sharp edges. Definitely a must for a professional look. There are two main styles: a chamfer cutting "standard" and a quarter-round "keen." Ideally, do most of your work with a #3 Keen (WT-012). Get a #2 standard (WT-013), however, for tight inside turns that the Keen can't cut. Required for nice gear (in my opinion).
F.	Awl, used for marking things, poking things, and punching holes. The Leather Factory sells them for a couple of bucks. I use a carpet needle shoved into a bit of dowel. Optional.