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About Tips & Tricks

Everyone has their own little tricks to make working with leather a little easier, faster or more satisfying. This page will grow over time as I share some of mine. Many are just plain common sense, but take each for what it's worth.

Keep It Clean!

The simplest tip is just to keep your work area clean. Working leather, by nature, makes a lot of little pieces that basically go everywhere.. dots of leather from punching holes, strips from skiving and cutting. These little bits can get in the way, and you should get rid of them often. Being a basically lazy person, I use the easiest possible method. Buy a little shop-vac. Mine is a two gallon unit with a flexible hose, and it sucks scrap up quite well. Ten seconds of use and the work area is clean again.

Centering Holes

Generally, you know the center point of a hole to be punched. However, placing a punch in the right location obscures this mark. It takes some practice to place the punch in just the right place. There are a couple of ways to do this right:

  1. Place the punch where you think it belongs and press lightly, leaving a mark in the leather. Remove the punch and take a look. It your mark is in the right place, set the punch back in the indention and go to town. Otherwise, adjust and repeat.
  2. Make a simple template out of either scrap leather or clear plastic sheeting (like a transparency slide). Center this template over the hole and punch through it.
  3. Finally (if you are a wimp;), you can buy a self-centering punch. This tool has a thin spring-loaded protrusion extending through the center of the punch blade. Place the end of the protrusion on your center mark and strike. Note that this gizmo is a pain, as the resultant leather dot must be cleared each time while the standard punch is self-clearing.

Desktop Template

You'll make many, many cuts at a right angle. If you chose the 45 degree corner treatments shown on most of my examples, you be cutting a lot of those as well. The fastest, easiest way to make these cuts is to draw a template right on your work surface using a thin felt-tipped pen. Here is one simple pattern:

Desktop Template

To use this template, lay the piece you want to cut right up against the appropriate lines, lay a straightedge over the piece and against the appropriate lines, and cut along the straightedge. For example, to cut a small 45 degree corner in the base strap of a locking restraint:

  1. Lay the base strap into the right angle formed in the lower-right quadrant in the pattern above.
  2. Carefully line up the left and top edges with the vertical and horizontal lines respectively.
  3. Place your ruler over the upper-left corner of the base strap, running from bottom-left to top-right.
  4. Line up the top edge of the ruler with the uppermost diagonal line above.
  5. Press firmly and cut.

The alternatives to this approach are to 1) eyeball it, which inevitably results in inconsistent corners or 2) measure ½" back from the coner in each direction and use these marks to line up your ruler. Using a template is faster and easier.

Punching Templates

If you are going to do the same thing over and over, whether within one project or because you're going to make more than one of something, make a template on a scrap piece of leather. Here are some examples:

(Picture coming soon)

By creating a template, you ensure that holes and angles are consistently placed, and working goes faster as well. In using a template, position it directly over the piece you are working on and mark the target piece through the template by pressing a punch into it, then remove the template to actually punch the holes you have marked.

Templates are especially useful in the locking restraints projects, as it can be difficult to place the oblong holes correctly.

Cutting Curves

A number of projects require curves of one variety or another: suspension cuffs, CBT toys, and especially the serpentine collar. Whenever possible, trace to outline of something, a plate, cup, O-ring.. if you can find the right shape. With a firm object to trace, multiple light passes with a utility knife gives acceptable results. However, if you have to freehand a shape, like the serpentine collar, here's an easy way to get good results.

Secure a spineless (no thicker part on the back end.. Tandy stripper blades are perfect) razor blade in a wood clamp like the shown here. Hold the clamp in one hand and pull the work past the blade, following a line drawn with a felt-tipped pen. This works well for trimming little bits, too. Advantages of this approach: a clean, square cut, and good control.

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