OK, you asked for them. I won't claim that this is the best design in the world for suspension by the arms, but it performs pretty well. Please remember that suspension can be dangerous! The bones of the wrist are quite fragile, and while this design distributes the weight of the hangee, exercise extreme caution. Encourage your honey to hang on to the cuffs, and to communicate any pain quickly. As with any suspension play, hang your victim from a sturdy location (don't want any ceilings falling on your honey) and employ panic snaps and heavy chain. Also, please do not substitute rivets for indicated key posts in this project, as the former simply are not strong enough.
By the way, suspension cuffs are also great for restraining someone in a spread-eagled position on a bed, or staked out in the woods! They are much more comfortable than standard restraints when the arms are pulled straight out from the body.
Mallet, Utility Knife, Scissors, Square, Rivet Setter, Punch, 1" Oblong Punch, Edge Beveler #2, Edge Slicker, Strap Cutter (optional), Grommet Setter and Anvil (optional)
1" Roller Buckles (2)
1.5" Welded D-rings (2)
Key Posts (12)
Grommets (optional) (6+)
Base Strap (2): varies a bunch
Belt Straps (2): W+6" x 1"
Use a flexible material that is easily cut (I use plastic transparency sheets) to create a template using the large pattern in Diagram 1. This may take more than one try, but don't settle for anything less than an excellent fit. You really need access to the target wrist for this endeavor.
There are a couple of sizes that must be determined. Measure loosely around the wrist. Add about 2" and this becomes W below. Next, decide on the desired tongue length, L. I prefer the distance from bottom of palm to second joint of the middle finger. This size allows the victim to hold on in two ways - around the tongue or over the D-ring. Others have expressed a preference for longer tongues, perhaps an inch or two more than bottom of palm to tip of middle finger. Totally personal choice.
Test your template by curving it so that the two tongues are aligned and the piece forms a 'cup' shape. Hold the tongues securely together, and the target hand should slide into the bottom of the cup fairly easily. The fit is correct if a) the tongue extends about 2.5 inches beyond where you want it and b) the cup is fairly loose around the wrist. There is some room for error in the cup diameter, but you need to account for the thickness of both leather and lining.
Cut the base strap using your template. Lay the template on the top (smooth side) of the leather, hold it firmly in place, and draw around it with a felt-tipped pen. Cut the straight portions first using a straight-edge. Then round off where appropriate with scissors or utility knife.
Presumably, you will be making two of these. It is a nice touch to 'mirror' them by flipping your template over. This is not required, however, and is purely aesthetic. Conserve leather! If you are using one large piece, cut one inside the other.. cut the first and move the template straight up into the clear. This seems to be the most efficient way to get two base straps from one piece of leather.
You also need to cut the belt strap. It is a simple one-inch belt, and you should know how to make these by now! Look at the Buckling Restraints plan for more information if you need it.
Following the plan in Diagram 1, punch eight holes in the long tongue and six holes in the short tongue. The 'estimated' distances (indicated by ~) depend on the thickness of leather you are using. You can estimate this distance by the seat of your pants, or punch the four lower holes first, fold the leather around the D-ring in its eventual position, and punch through the existing holes into the other side. Take a good look at the picture that says 'D-ring' and understand how the tongues fold over the ring securely.
Next, punch the indicated holes in the center of the belt strap, and the holes that secure it to the base strap.
Finally (for now), punch the holes indicated at the buckle (right) end of the belt strap. Hold off on the belt tongue holes for now.
Finish the edges before attaching hardware. Use a #2 edge beveller to bevel all outer edges, top and bottom, on both straps. Rub all of the outer edges briefly with an edge slicker and apply Edge Coat. Allow to dry, about 15 minutes.
Use two medium rivets the attach the roller buckle to the belt strap. Although I don't do it, you can include a 1" D-ring between the two rivets as a keeper. Use two 1/4" key posts to attach the belt strap to the primary strap. Don't forget to glue the key posts.
I recommend a thick felt lining. Cut a piece of lining slightly larger than the base strap, extending up the tongue to about an inch short of the first holes. This is the area that will be lined. Lay the lining on a flat surface, with the side to be glued up. Coat the inside of the base strap liberally with Fabri-Tac. Starting from one end, firmly lay the strap (glue-side down) onto the lining. Press down hard for several seconds. Allow the glue to set, then trim off the excess lining carefully with a pair of scissors.
Loop both tongues of the base strap through a 1.5" D-ring as shown in the Diagram. If you've done things right, the holes should line-up! The bottom holes go through three thicknesses of leather, the others through four. You _can_ get away with 1/4" key posts in the former (this will result in a tighter grip), but it may be difficult to get them in place. An electric screwdriver helps a lot. Use 3/8" key posts through the other two holes. Again, glue in place for security.
Punch the belt holes. Mark the location for the first hole in place around the target wrist. Put the restraint on the target location, pull the belt strap through the buckle, and mark a _snug_ location. Additional holes are optional.
If desired, you may place grommets in the belt holes. This definitely increases the life of the piece by reducing wear and tear on the belt strap, but does cause the action to be a little rough. Your choice.
