 WWL Hardware: The BDSM Crafter's Supply |
 |
Tools Tips/Tricks Links Projects |
Techniques Supplies Quickies Braiding |
WWL Hardware: The BDSM Crafter's Supply |
|
Tools Tips/Tricks Links Projects |
Techniques Supplies Quickies Braiding |
I have lumped everything that gets used up (all right, except the glues and edge treatments!) into the category 'Supplies', and talk about then here. Obviously, what you will need depends on what you want to make.
The first thing that comes to mind is leather. You need some to make things out of! For more information about leather, get Tandy's free catalog.
Leather is animal skin that has been cleaned and treated. Most commercial leather comes from cows, although you can also get pig, snake, kangaroo, sheep, and other things that move.
In addition to the type of animal graciously giving it's skin, the section of leather and it's treatment determines its characteristics. 'Grain' is the epidermal layer of the animal's skin, and is left on 'Full Grain' leathers, providing some texture to the surface. Full Grain cuts are generally used for tooling and carving, not BDSM gear. 'Top Grain' leather includes the grain, but it has been sanded to eliminate scars and marks. 'Splits' are the lower layer(s) of a hide that has been split into multiple pieces. 'Suede' is a buffed split with an uneven, raised surface. Skins can be treated with a number of different substances. Most leather is either vegetable-tanned or chrome-tanned. Vegetable-tanning tends to result in a softer, suppler hide. You'll also occasionally run into buck- and bark-tanned skins. Tanning protects leather, and seals it from the elements. However, most tanned leathers are rather susceptible to the sweat and skin oils BDSM often exposes them to. The exception is tanning with alum and gambier, and subsequent infusion with oils and waxes, a process that delivers the wonderful latigo leather. This is far-and-away the best leather for BDSM gear. It is strong, durable, and stretches without permanently mis-shaping.
My favorite is a 10oz latigo. Occasionally, a lighter (6oz) latigo comes in handy for smaller pieces, tight bends, or more comfortable pieces. Suede makes a nice lining. Another advantage of these leathers is that they come in black (my favorite color), and need not be dyed.
Leather weights are generally measured in ounces, where each ounce equals 1/64" in thickness. Thus, a 10 oz latigo is a little over 1/8" thick. Usually, a weight is stated as a range, such as 9-10 oz. This is due to variations in the splitting process, and really doesn't matter much.
Leather is priced and sold by the square foot. The price will vary depending on the cut, or section of the hide. The largest piece generally available is a 'side' or half of the skin, and this is the cheapest way to buy. A large side can be 25 square feet or more. Some other cuts include:
Back - the top half of a side, and generally the nicest part of a skin.
Belly - the lower half of a side, usually an odd shape since both legs are on it. Can also refer to the lower half of a side from a skin with the double shoulder removed.
Double shoulder - the shoulder portion across an entire skin, including the neck and both forelegs.
Bend - the top portion of a side from a skin with the double shoulder removed.
Tandy also caries a number of custom sizes, such as squares, straps, etc. Additionally, they will custom cut a side to your specifications. This is not a recommended way to buy, as the price goes up significantly. However, if may be a good option if you aren't sure you want to make much stuff.
Leather is also distinguished and priced according to grade. No uniform grading system exists, but the higher the grade, the lower the incidence of holes, scrapes, and thin spots. Buy high-grade leather, or you'll end up cutting around the bad spots or accidentally including an unintended hole in one of your projects.
Dying leather is not difficult, although it can be messy. I stay away from it, and use black leather to make my black gear ;). However, if you must have something in pink, by all means go for it. You should start with a natural (uncolored) tanned hide, unless you need a light color, in which case a bleached hide is preferred. Tandy's Pro Dye or the equivalent is recommended.. you need a dye that really penetrates. Apply prior to assembly, using a sponge or piece of wool. Wear gloves, and use either a circular or linear motion to apply evenly. For a darker color, apply a second coat _before_ the first coat dries. After coloring, use a wax and oil-based finishing product, such as Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax. This process won't give the durability of latigo, but you get the color you want.
Obviously, Tandy will be glad to have your leather business. They do stock quality leathers, but are horrendously expensive. A latigo side from Tandy can run $7.50 a square, while other sources sell for $4.25 or less.
A better option for bulk (side or more) purchases is a tannery, where animal skin goes in and leather comes out. Prices are very good, although if there isn't a tannery in your area you must buy sight unseen. I have had good luck with:
Siegel of California
3527 Madera Street
P.O. Box 595
Santa Ynez, California 93460
(800)862-8956
The generic bucket 'hardware' includes D-rings, O-rings, buckles, snaps, etc. Tandy has a nice assortment, although some items can also be found (for less) at a large hardware store. Make sure any D- or O-rings you use are of the welded variety for strength. Likewise, buckles should be heavy-duty, preferably the roller buckles pictured below.
One thing you can't get at Tandy that is a key component of locking items is the plate staple. Shown above and in close-up below, plate staples are available at large hardware stores for a buck or so, and generally made by Stanley. In the worst case, you can buy a hasp and staple, and discard the hasp.
There are all kinds of fasteners, including rivets, key posts, grommets, eyelets, snaps and good old nails. Again, Tandy is the best place to buy most of this stuff.
Clockwise from upper left, the above picture shows:
Rivets and caps (small, medium, large, extra large; two cap sizes), brads with large chrome heads, key posts (1/4" and 3/8"), Durable Dot snaps (male and female), grommets, eyelets.
A quick note about key posts. A key post is a steel screw fastener. Use these liberally where strength is required, as they are worth four or five rivets. When you screw them together, use a bit of superglue or epoxy to keep them in place forever. Judicious use of key posts is well worth the extra expense.
To visit other quality Sartan sites, please see
WWL Hardware: The BDSM Crafter's Supply |
All contents are ©SarOfTreve, 1997-2004 or used with owner's permission, and may not be used without written permission.
This copyright will be enforced to the fullest extent of the law.