While a scarf or bandanna can serve as a blindfold and knotted towel works admirably as a gag, leather is sexier, isn't it? Blindfolds and gags are generally easy projects, and make nice additions to a leather collection. This first blindfold project gets its name from the great book Screw the Roses, Send Me the Thorns by Miller and Devon, which features a similar item in the cover picture. There are lots of steps, but most are really easy ;)
Utility Knife, Punch, 1" Oblong Punch, Edge Beveler #2, Rivet Setter, Scissors, Strap-Cutter (optional), Skiver (optional), Eyelet Setter and Anvil (optional)
Medium Rivets
½" buckle (1)
Felt Lining
3/16" Eyelets (optional) (3+)
Front Plate: ~7" x ~3.25"
Buckle Strap: ~12" x .5"
Belt Strap: ~12" x .5"
Measure the circumference of the target head loosely, across the eyebrows and above the ears. This is X in Diagram 1 below. Also, measure from temple to temple across the eyebrows. This is the width of the front plate, and should be about seven inches.
Cutting the front plate well is the most challenging part of this project. Ideally, you should make a cardboard template, the width of the second measurement above and about 3 ½" high. Fold this piece in half for all cutting to keep the piece symmetrical. Cut the template down a little bit at a time, holding it against the target face until you get the right fit. Now, use a felt-tipped pen to transfer this shape to a suitable piece of leather. The top of both template and leather should be straight, and matching these eliminates some cutting. The rest of the cutting must be done freehand. Use a shallow stroke initially, and make several passes to cut all the way through.
Next, you need two ½" straps, one for each side. The respective length of these straps determines where the buckle lies when the blindfold is on, which is mostly a matter of personal preference. The total length of the two straps will end up at about X - 1 ½", given a seven-inch front plate, one inch overlap with the plate for each strap, two inches of fold-over for the buckle, and an excess 1 ½ inches for the tongue of the belt. Neither strap should be extremely short, and leave some excess at this point.
I recommend using a skiver to thin the strap leather to about 2/3 of it's original thickness.. this will allow the buckle to operate more easily, as most ½" buckles are not intended for leather this thick.
In cutting the straps, just estimate the desired location for now, and be sure to leave 3" or excess length on the buckle strap and 2 ½ inches on the other end (this includes and inch on each for overlap).
If you own a skiver, you may want to skive both straps to make the buckle operate more smoothly. Just thin the strips by about a third.
Bevel all edges of the both straps (although at least one of them will be shortened in a moment) and the top of the front plate.
Punch the attachment holes.. one ½" back from one end or each strap and two on the front plate. The latter should be ½" back from the edge, and high enough to rest above the temples.
Use two medium rivets to secure both straps to the front plate. The ends of both straps should be under the front plate.
Now it is time to decide where the buckle should end up. Hold the piece up to the target head and decide. Cut off the buckle strap square, 1 3/4 inches longer than the desired buckle location. Punch the four round and one oblong holes indicated in Diagram 1.
Use two medium rivets to secure the buckle to the buckle strap.
Again, use the target head to decide the right length for the other belt strap. Mark the desired length, then cut this strap square, 1 ½ inches longer than the desired location. Punch one or more holes at which to buckle. Optionally, you might want to reinforce these holes with 3/16" eyelets.
You probably don't want a square end on the second belt strap. Shape it as desired.. round, pointed, whatever.
There are two areas that need to be beveled at this point - the shaped end and the folded end by the buckle. Bevel these edges and apply Edge Coat to all edges of the piece.
Since the blindfold will rest against the sensitive skin of the face, a heavy felt or fur lining is recommended. Cut a piece slightly larger than the front plate and place it inside-down on the work surface. Apply Fabri-Tac or a similar glue to the front plate, making sure the edges are well covered. Starting at one end, lay the glued area down onto the lining while applying firm pressure. The best way that I can think of the describe this action is to 'roll' the leather down on the lining. Once in place, press firmly on the front plate for a few seconds. After the glue dries, trim the excess lining off with a pair of scissors.
