WWL Hardware: The BDSM Crafter's Supply
Another staple of bondage play, buckling restraints can be just as secure, although not as intimidating, as their locking cousins. One side benefit: you don't have to buy/carry locks or clips to keep them on. The same design can be used for wrist, ankle and thigh restraints, and even collars and belts. The design presented here is only slightly more complex than the locking restraints. With a little ingenuity, you can add a second D-ring to each cuff, roughly opposite the one in the plan and attached using the same 1" strap.
Mallet, Utility Knife, Scissors, Square, Rivet Setter, Punch, 1" Oblong Punch, Edge Beveler #2, Edge Slicker, Strap-Cutter (optional), Grommet Setter and Anvil (optional)
1" Roller Buckle (2)
1" Welded D-ring (2)
Long Rivets or ¼" Key Posts
Grommets (optional) (3+)
Base Strap (2): X+3" x 2.5"
Belt Strap (2): X+6" x 1"
Measure the circumference of the target location (i.e. measure around the wrist for wrist restraints). Add ¼ to ½ inch for comfort. Add ¼ to ½ inch for lining, if desired. This measurement is 'X' in Diagram 1 below.
Cut the two leather straps that form each restraint. The easiest way to do this is to cut 2 ½" and 1" straps from a piece of leather using the Strap-Cutter, then cut to size with a Square and Utility Knife. Make sure the ends are square (perpendicular) to the sides. Next, trim each corner of the primary strap and one end of the belt strap. You can use a 1" belt-ender on the belt strap, if you have one.
Following the plan in Diagram 1, punch four holes in the primary strap. The belt strap will be secured to the primary strap through these holes. The size will vary, depending on whether you are using four rivets or key posts to hold everything together.
Next punch the eight 'securing' hole in the belt strap, as indicated in Diagram 1. Note that the belt strap will loop back for the last three inches.
Using a 1" oblong punch, make the hole for the tong of the buckle. Depending on the width of the tong, you may need to punch this hole 1 ½ to 2 times as wide as the oblong punch.
We'll hold off on the belt holes for now.
Finish the edges before attaching hardware. Use a #X edge beveller to bevel all outer edges, top and bottom, on both straps. Rub all of the outer edges briefly with an edge slicker and apply Edge Coat. Allow to dry, about 15 minutes.
Secure the belt strap to the primary strap using either long rivets or ¼" key posts. Use key posts for greater strength. Of course, the buckle and D-ring must both be in place during this process.
Punch the belt holes. You can follow the measurements in Diagram 1, but it is better to mark the location for the first hole in place. Put the restraint on the target location, pull the belt strap through the buckle (the buckle-side base strap should go OVER the opposite end), and mark a comfortable location. If you plan on lining the restraint, place one layer of the lining material between the restraint and the target area.
If desired, you may place grommets in the belt holes. This definitely increases the life of the piece by reducing wear and tear on the belt strap, but does cause the action to be a little rough. Your choice.
If you want to line your restraints, I recommend either a nice suede or felt. Cut a piece of lining slightly wider and longer than the primary strap. This is the area that will be lined. Lay the lining on a flat surface, with the side to be glued up. Coat the inside of the primary strap liberally with Fabri-Tac. Starting from one end, firmly lay the strap (glue-side down) onto the lining. Press down hard for several seconds. Allow the glue to set, then trim off the excess lining carefully with a pair of scissors.
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