Another project inspired by Screw the Roses, Send Me the Thorns (Miller and Devon), this arm binder is pictured on page 39 of that book. It provides a comfortable and relatively secure means of positioning your honey's arms behind his or her back. Useful in a kneeling or standing position. This plan is a little more secure than the original, due to the addition of a horizontal strap to prevent the removal of the arms out the sides.
Before you start, take a look at Diagram 1, particularly the small sketch in the upper right corner. This shows how the three pieces work together.
Mallet, Utility Knife, Rivet Setter, Punch, 1" Oblong Punch, Edge Beveler #2, Edge Slicker, Strap-Cutter (optional), Eyelet Setter and Anvil (optional)
1" Roller Buckle (2)
1.5" Roller Buckle (1)
1" Welded D-rings (1)
1.5" Welded D-rings (2)
Medium Rivets or ¼" Key Posts (13)
Durable Dots (Snaps) (1 set)
Eyelets (optional) (3+)
Back Plate: 3.25" x 4"
Chest Buckle Strap: ?+3" x 1"
Chest Belt Strap: ?+3" x 1"
Arm Strap: H+6" x 1.5"
Arm Retainer Strap: W+6" x 1"
Measurement for this project is a bit iterative. These initial measurements should give you an idea of the lengths for each strap, but please cut these long for now and trim them later! The arm position referred to below is as follows: arms behind the back, forearms parallel to the ground, one on top of the other. The top forearm is 'top-up', and the bottom forearm is -top-down'. The upper arm attached to the bottom forearm rests in the thumb webbing of the hand attached to the other forearm.
The chest harness has three parts: back plate, buckle strap and belt strap. The two straps should be about the same length, so that the buckle rests in the middle of the back. Each is approximately the following length: measure from a point about three inches below shoulder level on the spine, over the shoulder, under the arm and back to the spine at a level equal to the bottom of the breasts.
The arm strap circles around the back plate D-ring and the forearms. With the arms in position, measure from three inches below shoulder level on the spine, around both forearms, and back. This is H in Diagram 1.
The arm retainer encircles the upper arms and is snapped to the arm strap to stay in place. With the arms in position, measure around the upper arms about three inches above the elbow. This is W in Diagram 1.
There are five pieces of leather to cut. The back plate should be easy.. just follow the dimensions indicated in Diagram 1.
Next, cut the straps of the chest harness. Use the length measured in Step 1 (plus three inches, plus a little leeway) to cut these two straps from one-inch wide stock. A strap cutter is invaluable in cutting the strap stock.
From another one-inch strap, cut the arm retainer W+6 inches long. You may wish to add a little extra, just to be sure.
From a 1.5 inch strap, cut the arm strap H+6 inches long. Again, a little extra may be safe, as you can always trim it later.
Finish the edges before attaching hardware. Use a #2 edge beveller to bevel all outer edges, top and bottom, on all pieces. Rub all of the outer edges briefly with an edge slicker and apply Edge Coat. Allow to dry, about 15 minutes. Of course, you'll be trimming some of this off shortly, but most of the edge finishing can be done now.
You have three buckles to attach. In each case, you may wish to include a D-ring to act as a keeper and useful tie-point.. totally personal preference. I use a three-rivet pattern without a D-ring, and a four-rivet pattern with one. The arm binder isn't really a high-stress project, so you can use rivets if you prefer. If your honey is a 'struggler' you may want to include a few key posts in strategic locations.
Attach buckles to 1) one of the chest harness straps 2) the arm strap and 3) the retainer strap.
Punch the holes indicated in Diagram 1 into the back plate. Punch corresponding holes (2) into the free end of each chest harness strap. Using rivets (or key posts if you prefer), secure a 1.5" D-ring to the back plate (the top tongue folds over) and secure the harness straps to the back plate.
Position the chest harness comfortably on the target torso and mark the location for the belt hole. Punch this hole and as many others as you desire. Trim the end of the harness belt strap to about three inches longer than the last hole, and shape the end. Bevel and finish the resulting edges. You may want to place eyelets in these belt holes.
Use the target torso, with chest harness buckled in place, to size and finish the arm strap. Remember that this strap runs from the back plate D-ring around the forearms and back. To keep your honey from fooling with this strap, the buckle should remain high on the back and facing up.. i.e. the end with the holes should be on top and pointing down.
With the arms held in place by the arm strap, size the arm retainer by running it around the biceps.
Before you complete this step, all straps should be cut, punched, and finished.
A durable dot (Tandy's big snap) secures the arm retainer to the arm strap. Place the base of the dot on the arm strap in the desired location, and the top of the dot on the arm retainer. You're done!
