If you're handy and have a thing for machine sex, this collection of parts for mechanical fucking machines may be just what you're looking for. From gear motors to custom welded components, everything you need to build the sex machine of your dreams... except the labor!
Welcome to the largest selection of sex machine parts and motors available. Here you'll find all of the mechanical stuff you need to build the sex machine of your dreams, along with a bit of advice and commentary from Mr. Fucking Machine himself ;) These parts are available for online purchase, using the shopping cart from my commercial sex machines site OrgasmAlley.com. Payment options include secure online credit card and a number of other options, listed lower on this page.
Motors - Parts - Ordering - Selection Advice - Wiring DC Motors
The following motors are in stock and available for sale. Please note that there may be some lag time between someone purchasing, their order being logged, and this page getting updated. In other words, it's possible but unlikely that I've already sold a motor you order. Should this happen, I will contact you to substitute or cancel your order. I have done away with holding motors. Motors are now sold solely by credit card payment, unless you email me and make prior arrangements. Each unit has been tested. The RPM listed is nameplate, and may not match top speed when run from a control. 90VDC motors will faster than nameplate when powered by converted line current. Generally, these prices will be less than one third street retail for new motors, and in some cases much less. Please read condition carefully. This information is guaranteed accurate to the best of my ability. I cannot, however, guarantee these motors.
Click "view picture" to see a picture of the motor. I do not clean motors, so most of them are probably dusty or dirty. Click the purple "buy" button to add motor to cart. See bottom of this page for selection advice and wiring information.
I offer a number of new, surplus, modified, and/or fabricated components suited to the construction of fucking machines. This is an excellent way to build your machine, particularly if you don't have a full shop. Photos below enlare at least a bit in pop-up window when clicked. "Add to Cart" will place one of the item in your shopping cart, which will then be displayed. "Continue Shopping" should bring you back to this page.
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Full Power Line 2. This upgraded assembly includes everything required between household power socket and motor. High quality motor control, fully adjustable for both minimum speed and maximum speed. This control will overvolt most motors if desired, which is generally safe to about 1.3 times rated speed/voltage. IR COMP setting senses motor draw versus set speed, and feeds more power to motor when choking under load... this provides excellent low-speed performance in fucking machines. Control may be used with 90/130 VDC motors from 110/120 VAC power grid, or 180/240 VDC motors from 220/240 VAC power grid. Power cord, 10 feet long. Computer power panel jack with leads. XLR panel jack with leads. Hand control with 10 foot cord, XLR plug. Instructions. | |
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Full Power Transmission 1. This kit includes one full set of power transmission components of "standard" style. Offset pin arm, five hole. First drive arm set, 1/4". Modified linear slide. Dildo platform arm with strap. Select motor shaft diameter if not ordered with a motor. | |
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Full Power Transmission 2. This kit includes one full set of power transmission components of Invader/Stallion style. Flywheel with mount. First drive arm set, 3/8". U-Pivot, black. Precision linear shaft. Pair Frelon linear bearings. Dildo platform arm with strap. Select 7" or 9" flywheel. | |
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Vac-U-Lock Adapter. This machined aluminum plug is designed for use with Vac-u-lock dildos from Doc Johnson. IMO, this is the absolute best way to mount a dildo for machine fucking. Also good for bench-mount dildos and similar applications. Available with your choice of 1/4-20 or 3/8-16 threaded hole up the back for mounting, with or without permanently afixed threaded stud. | |
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Dildo Platform Arm. This welded arm has 1/4-20 or 3/8-16 male threads on one end and a steel platform on the other. Intended for use with wide-based dildos, such as those with fake balls. These come unfinished, with a coating or oil to avoid rust. Painting recommended. Retention strap included. | |
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Offset Pin Arm. Shaft collar matching the motor's shaft diameter welded to a piece of 3/16" thick steel bar. 1/4-20 threaded holes for first arm attachment. Locks to the motor shaft with an Allen-head set screw, 6mm. These come unfinished, with a coating of oil to avoid rust. Specify shaft diameter (1/2", 5/8", or 3/4") if not ordered with a motor. |
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Invader/Stallion Flywheel. Machined aluminum flywheel is identical to that on my Invader and Stallion commercial units. 7" wheel has 6" maximum stroke and 11 total stroke lengths. 9" wheel has 8" maximum stroke and 15 positions. Holes are 3/8-16 threaded. Both versions are 3/4" thick and feature a 3/4" blind alignment hole on back side. Optional mount available. Wheels are sold without a final finish (unless you like the milled pattern, as shown). |
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First Drive Arm. This item includes two ball-joint rod ends and a 12" length of threaded rod. The rod ends are 1/4-28 or 3/8-24 female threaded, with a 1/4" or 3/8" hole in the ball bearing. The 1/4" version is ideal for use with the offset pin arms above and linear slide below, the 3/8" version works with the Invader/Stallion style components. | |
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Modified Linear Slide. This is an extra-heavy duty, three part ball bearing drawer slide, 16" long. Excellent final drive arm, with 3/8-16 female threaded receiver and 1/4-20 drive pin connector. Ideal for use with 3/8" dildo systems and 1/4" first drive arm. | |
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Precision Linear Shaft. Case hardenned steel shaft, 1/2" diameter, 18" long, with 1/4-20 tapped holes at each end for simple connection. Use with 3/8" first drive arm, U-Pivot, and 1/4-20 dildo holder(s). This shaft is ideal for use with the linear bearings below, or other 1/2" ID bearings or bushings. | |
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Linear Bearings with Pillow Blocks. These 1/2" ID Frelon-lined bearings in machined aluminum pillow blocks are simple to install and ideal for sex machine use. They are more resistant to the elements than linear ball bearings, and should last forever when properly installed and used with linear shaft above. Sold in pairs only. | |
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U-Pivot. The hand fabricated steel pivot provides the ideal connection between first drive arm and linear shaft. Designed to accept a 3/8" rod end. 1/4-20 stud intended for attachment to the linear shaft above. | |
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Speed Control. Lutron 5 amp fully variable fan motor speed control, provides OK control over motor speed in DC units when coupled with rectifier/capacitor. Not as precise as more complex units, far inferior to powerline 2 below. White knob, integrated on/off, high speed is to the left. Fits in a standard outlet box, cover plate (not included) requires 3/8" center hole. These units are new. | |
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Bridge Rectifier. These rectifiers are ideal for sex machines, and are new surplus (unused). Rated for 25 amps, leaving plenty of headroom for our application. Formerly sold with capacitors, shown in pic but I've run out. Combine with 3+ uF motor capacitor and control above for basic DC power supply. Rectifier - $5. |
Shipping. The shopping cart uses simple methods to add shipping to your order. Individual items above -- and on the motors page -- have shipping values associated with them. These are summed for your order, and the greater of that result or $5 is your shipping. This amount reflects UPS Ground shipping in the Continental US. You'll have the option to select USPS service in the US or to International destinations in the shopping cart. These are somewhat more expensive. Texas residents will have 6.25% state sales tax added to the merchandise total.
Most orders ship out within a week of payment receipt. I accept MasterCard/Visa/Discover/AMEX, cashier's checks, money orders, and personal checks. All personal checks incur a 10-day hold. These payment options are provided at the bottom of the cart page. Note that I reserve the right not to honor motor purchases when paid by means other than a credit card, and cannot guarantee current motor availability. One last point... please don't order parts thinking you'll just bolt a few things together and have a fine machine! Building a fucking machine does take some skill. I would not recommend this as a project for the inexperienced crafter. Unfortunately, unless you're willing to pay a consultation fee I cannot provide detailed assistance building your machine.
No one motor is perfect for everyone's needs. To help you make your motor decision (here or elsewhere), here are my opinions on industrial gear motors for fucking machines:
1 - DC motors are far superior to AC motors. They require a couple of extra electrical components, but work with a very inexpensive speed control. AC motors require an expensive variable frequency drive for speed control. You'll note that all of my surplus motors are DC.
2 - Look for a duty rating of "continuous," usually listed on the nameplate as CONT. This means different specific things depending on manufacturer, but for our purposes it means the machine can be used for a few hours with no risk of motor overheating. Avoid "treadmill duty" and "intermittent duty" motors unless you're willing to live with 30-45 minute sessions followed by an equivalent rest time. Again, all my my surplus motors are continuous duty.
3 - More torque is better, up to about 30 in-lbs (inch-pounds) for a thrusting machine. Beyond that, only the most extreme play will show a difference... huge dildos and/or very slow speeds. For a thrusting machine that won't be used anally with a huge dildo, 20 in-lbs is entirely sufficient. Squirming TFMs require less power, and are OK down to about 10 in-lbs of torque.
4 - Horsepower really doesn't matter if torque and speed are in the acceptable range. More is always better, up to about 1/4 HP. However, more horsepower means bigger windings, a bigger motor, and more weight. There are always trade-offs. I generally look between 1/12th and 1/4 HP. There are a couple of exceptions... for example, several manufacturers make lines of small 1/15th and 1/17th HP motors that are acceptable for this purpose, if you're OK with a slower machine.
5 - Speed is one of the most important considerations. The squirming motion shouldn't go over 200 RPM, in my opinion, and can be just fine down at 90 or even lower. For the thrusting motion, there is a dependency on stroke length. A full-stroke machine (which means 5 or 6" to me) works best for most people at 120 - 160 RPM, but most also like the ability to jump up over 200 RPM for brief periods. I would not recommend a stroke this long over 250 RPM for safety reasons. A short stroke machine (1-2" stroke) can operate at higher speeds effectively. My safety recommendation is this: multiple stroke length by RPM, and keep this number below 1500. 250 RPM for a 6" stroke, 750 RPM for a 2" stroke. While you'll probably put speed control on your TFM, expect significant power drop in the lower range. Don't expect to use a 1000 RPM motor controlled to 100 RPM and get any power out of it.
6 - Stick with 90 VDC, 115 VDC, or 130 VDC (required voltage for DC motors) motors if possible (US). Motors with these ratings run well from rectified (converted from AC to DC) line current. Running motors with lower or higher voltage ratings from rectified current will cause performance problems, and possibly, in the case of lower voltage motors, death of the unit. The alternative is using a transformer to convert line current to the right voltage for the motor. This is certainly possible. The transformer from a car battery charger, for example, will run many 12 VDC motors successfully, as will a computer power supply. This makes for a heavier, larger machine, and does require some knowledge to match motor and transformer. Despite some claims to the contrary, using a transformer and 12VDC motor does not provide a safety advantage over a propery grounded 100+ VDC motor.
There are several wiring configurations common to DC gear motors. Most will have two or three wires. The most basic has two "power" leads and maybe a ground. Swapping the power leads between positive and negative will reverse the motor. I can generally include a wiring diagram if sending you a motor that works differently.
Coverting AC line current from a wall plug to DC current to run the motor is easy. A bridge rectifier does the job. This electronic component has two AC input terminals and two DC output terminals (+ and -). The resulting output is not smooth... it jumps up and down in voltage, which is hard on a motor and may cause noticable jerkiness at lower speeds. Address this issue by wiring a capacitor across the DC output terminals as shown below.
Whether your motor has a ground lead or not, ground it. If any point in your fucking machine drive does not conduct electricity (a nylon pin sheath, for example), ground the other side as well.
We haven't talked about speed control. I find a very simple and inexpensive speed control perfectly viable, although the upgraded control in Power Line 2 above is far superior. The simple version above is a 5 amp fully variable fan motor speed control, wired in before the bridge rectifier. Do not use such controls with a lower rating (3 amp, for example). Also, stay away from 2, 3, and 4 position controls. Again, look for "fully variable."
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